All Because Of One Man

Turkey has always attracted two types of people: travelers and conquerors. Since the Atatürk era Turkey seems Westernized and modern in many ways -- but this appearance is misleading. History has shaped this place to be a land of contrasts, a heady mixture of oriental mystery and romance and ultramodern city life, deep-rooted religious faith and determined secularism, a fierce sense of national pride and openness to foreign ideas. Turkish culture is a distinctive blend of European and Middle Eastern ways of life.
Though more polarized than in the past, the Turkish people are very much their own center of gravity, and for the unwary visitor there are pitfalls to avoid as well as great riches to be found. My book, “Culture Smart! Turkey” aims to help you understand the paradoxes of Turkish life.
In my piece “Victory Day” (August 28, 2014), I explain how one remarkable man was responsible for creating modern Turkey. In 1923 Mustafa Kemal (known as Atatürk, “the Father of the Turks”) took control and transformed the country from an absolute monarchy into a secular, democratic Muslim state.
Up until more recent years not as many Turks were practicing, conservative Muslims. Many Turks identified themselves as secular Muslims. Turkey has reached a crucial time when Turkish society is extremely polarized along the lines of religion and political opinion. Social commentators stress the division between those whose attitudes and values are secular, and those whose attitudes and values are Islamic. It is therefore hard to give general descriptions that cover both halves of Turkish society. Clashes of culture and debates between these two viewpoints dominate the social and political scenes. In early 2013 the argument over what Turkey's national drink is raged for days after the prime minister said it should be the yogurt-based “ayran” rather than the alcoholic drink “rakı.”
In the 30-plus years I have lived in Turkey my observation has been that Turks are proud. The Turkish phrase, “Ne mutlu Türküm diyene!” (“How happy is he or she who can say, I am Turkish!”) is one of the most frequently encountered slogans. This expression genuinely reflects most Turkish people's belief in and commitment to their nation and homeland. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk restored to the Turks pride in their nationality and homeland. This is deep-seated and expresses itself in some surprising ways -- for example, it is an offense to wear a garment made out of the flag.
I have previously shared in my book about how a beloved TV presenter outraged the national press recently by kicking a balloon that had the crescent and star on it during a program celebrating Republic Day. It is a serious insult to make jokes about the national anthem, the flag or Atatürk. Turks may be critical of their own nation or government, but they will not like it if you agree with them or make negative statements yourself.
Over the centuries there has been much bloodshed and innocent lives lost. The landmass of Asia Minor, heart of the great multicultural Ottoman Empire and now the modern Republic of Turkey, experienced waves of migrations in which one civilization displaced another, leaving a unique and glorious cultural heritage. Tales of Atatürk and this one-man revolution abound, and he is genuinely universally revered, particularly by those who are more secular minded in lifestyle and philosophy. His image is still everywhere, though it seems more recently not as prevalent in the southeastern part of Turkey.
For readers abroad who are not familiar with the geographical and political differences, let me explain briefly about southeast Turkey. This is an area where neither the Republican People's Party (CHP) nor the Justice and Development Party(AKP) earned any support to speak of in recent elections earlier this year, as there was a party that represented the needs of the local residents there. The Kurds, the country's largest minority, who live in the area, have posed the most serious and persistent challenge to national unity. Kurdish people traditionally have lived in an area encompassing southeastern Turkey, northern Iraq Iran and Syria. The Turkish state has always sought to minimize the differences between Turks and Kurds, often describing the latter as “mountain Turks,” and its policies have received both the approval (for citizenship, education for all, etc.) and disapproval (for limitations on the use of the Kurdish language, etc.) of the West. The greatest fear of the Turks is that Kurdish nationalism will result in secession, similar to that seen in the former Yugoslavia in the late 20th century, and the breakup of their state.
Turkey has struggled with the establishment of real democracy. By this I don't just mean providing an opportunity to cast a vote, but other aspects, most importantly, freedom of speech.
“Many forms of government have been tried, and will be tried in this world of sin and woe." -- Winston Churchill

CHARLOTTE MCPHERSON (Cihan/Today's Zaman)